An old and very dear friend recently tracked me down via the highways and byways of the Internet. She lives halfway across the globe, and we haven’t met or spoken in decades, but the surprise and excitement of having found each other have kept me on a high for some time. I know that when we meet, there will be so much to exchange –husbands, children and all our lives in between –that it may take days and weeks to catch up. But the real joy of meeting old friends is that, for little pockets of time, we can be girls again. We can slip off those shoes that say ‘mother’, ‘wife’, ‘daughter-in-law’, curl up with our feet on sofas, talk and laugh about people and times only we knew, a time when so much was shared, so spontaneously.It’s always special cooking for girlfriends you’ve known for years. You know exactly what they love, and you put in those little extra touches around the room, on the table, and into the food –a little indulgence, a bit of fun, and a great deal of warmth. As a friend remarked recently, when we were halfway through lunch at my home: “it is as if someone has taken the trouble to do things exactly as I would like to do myself, as a special treat.” But always, the best part of catching up is when we get to what I like to call ‘snack box time.’ The main meal is out of the way, and now you can talk for all you are worth, uninterrupted; and since talking always seems to make you hungry, you need to have a supply of small treats on hand. Not so many that they distract you from the business of chatting, but something seriously delicious, good enough to sigh over, packed with enough calories to make you feel just a bit wicked about breaking your own everyday rules. Something to add to the pleasure of the moment. One of my favourite snack box treats is an old-fashioned Coorg sweet, karjikai, straight out of my grandmother’s kitchen, something she used to fry up for us in quantities, when we were children. They have a flirty, feminine charm that makes them the perfect choice for extending an afternoon into tea- time and beyond, talking endlessly until dusk creeps in. Light and crispy, with a luxurious filling of fresh coconut, toasted sesame seeds and granulated sugar, with each bite, a little burst of sugar syrup escapes into your mouth, a contrast to the crisped up edges of the pastry. The traditional ones are flavoured with little flecks of cardamom seeds, but you can use vanilla, dust them with icing sugar, or dip them in heavy sugar syrup too. Karjikais are uninhibitedly sugary, syrupy and crunchy at the same time, with the toasted sesame seeds adding a warm, nutty flavour. They taste heavenly served hot, but are equally delicious cold; and in cool weather, they can last for a week or longer stored in a glass jar, where they seem to get sweeter and heavier. So now I am looking forward to a meeting with my old friend. I’m not sure when it will be, or if it will happen at all. But if it does, you can be sure the snack box will be filled to the brim, to last us a good long time, and that old-fashioned karjikais will be right on top. P.S. ‘Snack box is a literal translation of ‘thindi dabbi’, a phrase heard frequently in my childhood, which referred casually to a tin or box that was used to store any kind of a snack!

Karjikais Recipe

Ingredients:

  • 2 cups plain flour
  • 2-3 tbsp melted ghee
  • 1 ½ cups freshly grated coconut. Take care not to grate in any of the hard, woody parts.
  • ½ cup sesame seeds, lightly toasted on a dry tava
  • ¾ cup sugar
  • a few cardamom seeds for flavouring
  • water to mix
  • a very tiny pinch of salt
  • oil for deep frying

Method:

  • Sieve the flour and salt together.
  • Work in the melted ghee, rubbing it in well and add just enough water to bind the dough together. Knead for a few minutes, until you have a smooth dough. Allow it to rest, covered, for about 15 mins.
  • In the meantime, toast the grated coconut in a frying pan, on a low flame, stirring all the while, until some of the moisture from it evaporates, but it is not too dry. It should not change colour.
  • Toast the sesame seeds to a medium-brown on a tava.
  • Mix the toasted coconut, and sesame seeds by hand. Add the sugar, again mixing by hand, tasting as you go along, to reach the preferred level of sweetness. Add a few cardamom seeds for flavour, or a few drops of vanilla essence if you prefer.
  • Pinch off large lime-sized portions of the dough, and roll out into circles on a lightly floured surface.
  • Place spoonful’s of the prepared filling at the centre of the pastry circles. Fold down the halves, and seal with a finger moistened in a little water. You should have a nicely rounded shape.
  • Crimp the edges of the karjikai with the back of a fork to further seal. Trim the edges with a pastry cutter.
  • Heat the oil, and deep fry to a light, golden brown. Serve hot or cold. Karjikais can also be dusted with icing sugar when cooled.

Cook’s Note : You can press out karjikais in a mould which is available in kitchen stores, but the hand rolled ones are far nicer, if you are willing to put in just a bit of effort. These sweet treats are part of many Indian cuisines, and each one makes them in slightly different ways.

Thank you for visiting this page. If you read something that you enjoy, or see an image that you like, please take a moment to write a response. Do look out for the recipes of all the food featured here in my upcoming cookbook.

Image Credits: Nithin Sagi
All Food Styling: Kaveri Ponnapa

Kaveri Ponnapa

Kaveri Ponnapa is a widely published independent writer on food, wine and heritage, based in Bengaluru. Her features appear in leading publications. She graduated with a Master’s Degree in Social Anthropology from the School of Oriental and African Studies, London.

  1. Kaverappa Padeyanda says:

    Nice to see karjikai. Images are so lively feel like have karjikai at this moment. The methods shown here will be very helpful to prepare karjikai… I think probably I will have karjikai in next month during festival…Thankyou…

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Hi Kaverappa, so glad you like the images, they should make you feel like going straight to the kitchen to roll out karjikais! I hope you enjoy making them. Best wishes, Kaveri

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Hi Susan, thanks so much for writing in. I’d be delighted if the images tempted you to try out the recipe, I try and capture something of the flavours of each dish in the pictures. It’s great to hear that you have tried out other recipes and that they worked well.Please do keep visiting this page! Warm wishes,Kaveri

  2. trigunesh says:

    what a lovely story – accompanied by mouth watering stuff. the presentation is beautiful – i’d have been afraid to break the setting (would have probably gone to the kitchen to eat). love and luck

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Hi Trigunesh, welcome to The Coorg Table. Had a good laugh at the thought of you going into the kitchen to eat – I promise there would be no need, everything edible on my table is made to be demolished! Thanks so much for your appreciation and good thoughts. Warm wishes, Kaveri

  3. Anjali Ganapathy says:

    GOSH!! its been ages since I’ve had karjikai, my grand mum used to make them and the word “thindi” reminds me how she’d whisper the word hoping we wouldn’t catch it. She’d hide the box so we wouldn’t find it and finish all the snacks before tea time 🙂 Will definitely be trying this recipe at home! As always your images are so beautifully styled…really captures the story behind the food.

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      I can just picture the scene, Anjali! It wasn’t too different in my grandmother’s home – the aunts would take great care to hide various boxes full of snacks from a houseful of grandchildren, in the hope of saving some for the many visitors who dropped by through the day. We took great delight in searching for them,and polishing off every last crumb,and then putting the boxes carefully back in their place. What followed was – visitors; horrified shrieks from the aunts when they saw the empty boxes, lectures and scoldings – but it never stopped any of us, the snacks were just too delicious.Have fun with the karjikais, I hope they turn out well.Warm wishes, Kaveri

  4. Suman Kher says:

    You have such a nice style of writing. I love the way you describe things, it actually creates images and sensations in the mind and body like we are actually there! Your pictures add to the charm of reading! Wonder where you get them from!

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Thank you very much, Suman! All the food featured here is what I cook in my kitchen, and then style into pictures, which are shot in my home by a friend. I’m so glad you enjoy them, and yes, the visuals really do make a difference when reading about food. All the recipes are absolutely tried and tested, so don’t hesitate to cook anything you read about, I’d be happy to answer any queries. Do keep visiting these pages, and you can also follow The Coorg Table on Facebook. Warm wishes, Kaveri

  5. Madhavi Ramkumar says:

    Real pleasure reading this and will definitely try out your recipe. Lovely presentation too.

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Hi Madhavi, welcome to The Coorg Table! I am so pleased that you enjoyed reading this post. Please do try out the recipe, I’m sure that you are an excellent cook, so it should be very easy for you to make these absolutely delicious karjikais. Do keep visiting these pages.Warm wishes.Kaveri

  6. Ganga Kariappa says:

    I know I keep saying this but your posts makes me feel soo much at home 🙂 I drop in now and then when I am homesick! And God those crockeries of yours are soo beautiful 🙂 🙂

    1. Kaveri Ponnapa says:

      Ganga, I’m delighted that my posts make you feel at home, and you are welcome to say that as often as you like! Please do keep visiting these pages whenever the mood takes you, and I hope that you will always find something to enjoy reading here. Warm wishes. Kaveri

Comments are closed.